Blue Guilloche Brooch

Rich blue enamel framed in yellow gold and accented with numerous seed pearls.  This jewel sparkles with the regal elegance favored during the late Victorian period.  Created by Carter, Howe & Co.,  circa 1900,  in 14kt gold.

The striking enamel in the center of this brooch is an example of guilloche enameling,  a demanding technique dating back to the 16th century.  Guilloche enameling involves engraving a finely detailed pattern onto a precious substrate, in this case undulating waves on polished gold.  A colored enamel is then applied to the substrate in several firings.  The translucent enamel fills the engraved lines throwing the design into brilliant, high relief.  The effect is visually stunning.

The reverse of the brooch is beautifully and carefully crafted.  The closed gold back supports and protects the enamel work and small pearls.  A sturdy pin stem and early safety clasp help secure the brooch when worn on a lapel, blouse or hat.

Carter, Howe & Co. (and its successor Carter, Gough) was an important American jewelry maker from the firm's founding in 1841 until about 1930.  Based in New Jersey,  the firm created elegant brooches, cufflinks and other jewels in platinum and gold.

The top of the clasp is stamped with the maker's mark of Carter, Howe & Company - a small "C" enclosed in an arrowhead.  Beneath the maker's mark "14K" is stamped for the purity of the gold.

Name:  Carter Blue

Cost:  Although this beautiful brooch has sold,  you will find many more fine brooches in the Antique Brooch Gallery.

Measurements:  This 14kt gold brooch measures just over 1 5/16" by just under 3/4".  It weighs 4.4 grams.

References:  To learn more about guilloche enameling,  please visit Art Of the Enameler.  Additional examples of Carter, Howes' work can be found in the Antique Brooch Gallery and the Antique Cufflink Gallery.